A Climber’s Paradise Right Here in Alabama


The collection of world-renowned boulders with ancient sandstone features sets the park as a natural setting for seasoned adventurers and newcomers alike, from Alabama and around the globe.

Natural rock formations fill Horse Pens 40, making it a premier destination in the Southeast for a form of rock climbing known as ‘bouldering’—when a climber attempts to ascend to the top of a boulder using only their bare hands and shoes specially made for the sport. Ropes and harnesses are not used since most boulders climbed are less than 20 feet tall. Instead, fall protection consists of (hopefully) well-placed crash pads below.

The area’s rich human history dates to the earliest occupation of the region, with Native American burial grounds dating from Alabama’s earliest inhabitants. Since then, it’s become a hub for outdoor enthusiasts—boulderers, birdwatchers and live music lovers.

The South’s Best Kept Secret

HP40 is full of uniquely sculpted rock formations in one of the most concentrated boulder fields in the world. The boulders, made of ancient sandstone, are solid enough to climb and offer a large number of climbs across an inviting range of difficulty, where there’s something for everyone to try—from the beginner to the seasoned veteran.

HP40 is home to nearly 500 sandstone bouldering routes, referred to as problems by climbers, and this field stands just a short hike from the campground and the general store and restaurant. Problems at HP40 typically range in difficulty rating from V0 to V12.

Photo by Caleb Hills

Josh Reyes, a Navy veteran who has lived in Alabama with his family since 2005, first fell in love with the outdoors as a kid when his dad often took him and his brothers hiking in New Mexico. As an adult, he was decommissioning a submarine in Maine when he read a newspaper article about a rock-climbing gym opening an hour away in New Hampshire. From that first visit on opening night, he knew he had found a new passion.

Josh didn’t begin with bouldering, but after top roping both indoors and outside, he decided to try it and fell in love. Thanks to his time in the Navy and his love of exploration, he’s been bouldering in forests and deserts across the states and abroad—but HP40 in Alabama still stands out as his overall favorite.  

After ten years in the Navy and prayer and thinking with his family, Josh and his family decided it was time for him to try out civilian life. He had already visited Alabama a few times and fallen in love with what he’d experienced. When the right doors opened, he and his family moved to the small college town of Jacksonville

“I’ve been here ever since, and it’s no accident that I moved close to Horse Pens 40 and just started going there any chance I got,” he explained.

“What sets Horse Pens 40 apart is its total experience. It has world-class rock formations, and the shape and texture of the sandstone are perfect. It’s very concentrated because it sits on top of the Chandler Mountain plateau, and that also makes it very easy to get around. There’s just so many good climbs, regardless of the difficulty,” he explained. Beyond the wide variety of quality boulder problems, HP40 also offers visitors the convenience of primitive camping and cabins.

But for Josh, it isn’t just the spectacular bouldering or the camping options. HP40 is a park that’s privately owned by the Schultz family, and for over two decades they have opened their property for visitors to responsibly use and enjoy. That sustained kindness comes with the burden of increased park upkeep, and Josh asks all visitors to do their part in practicing “Leave No Trace” principles so the Schultz family can keep the park open for future generations. Throughout his years bouldering at HP40, including time serving as a board member of the Southeastern Climbers Coalition , he’s experienced firsthand their hospitality and their excitement to welcome boulderers. 

HP40 is known as one of the best bouldering spots in the world, and it’s home to competitions every year, including the Chandler Mountain Challenge in March and the final leg of the Triple Crown Bouldering Series in November. Climbers typically make their way to the park in fall, winter and early spring.

The home of the South’s Bluegrass music

In addition to its global renown amongst boulderers, HP40 has been a venue for live music since a Huntsville local discovered its acoustic qualities in the 1950s. Designated by the Alabama State Legislature as “The Home of the South’s Bluegrass Music”, HP40 was the venue for one of the first outdoor bluegrass music festivals in the country. Legendary names like Bill Monroe, Ricky Skaggs, Norman Blake, Doc Watson, and Emmylou Harris have made appearances at HP40.

Today, HP40 hosts a variety of music events to draw in visitors and locals, like its Music and Crafts and Songwriters Festivals. 

A taste of Alabama for locals and visitors alike

For Alabama transplants like Josh Reyes, HP40 isn’t just a park. It’s a testament to what Alabama really has to offer, from outstanding biodiversity to true Southern hospitality.

“I’m wearing a hoodie right now that says it’s the South’s Best Kept Secret,” he said.

And those who’ve experienced HP40 know just how magical a secret it is to keep.

Photo by Caleb Hills

Your Horse Pens 40 guide

Standard day use: $11 (8AM – sundown) | Children under 10 are free with a paid parent

Primitive camping fee: $22 (sundown through sundown)

All visitors must sign in at the Country Store

Leave no trace

No dogs, aside from service dogs

256.458.3545
ashleyhp40@gmail.com
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